Whether you’re a pocket square aficionado or just a dabbler in menswear trends, navigating the etiquette of this accessory can admittedly be a bit of a sartorial minefield so below we've set out our pocket square guide.
How To Wear A Pocket Square:
- General pocket square rules
- Different pocket square styles
- What colour pocket square to choose for an occasion
- Should your square match, complement or contrast with your outfit?
- How to pair your tie and pocket square
- Images that illustrate colour combinations and folds
If all of these questions leave you feeling a bit flummoxed, read on for our comprehensive pocket square guide on how to wear your square with panache.
To view our full selection of contemporary and classic pocket squares, you can visit our store on the following link: Pocket Squares.
Matching A Tie And Pocket Square
One question we often get asked is around whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no if you want to consider yourself a well dressed man.
Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game.
If your pocket square has a pattern or print, for example, then pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together and match it to a primary colour in your ties such as in the image below. The burgundy in the tie is reflected in sections of the pocket square design.
Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your ensemble. Remember, it’s all in the detail, so don’t be afraid to bring out an accent colour on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt.
Below are some examples of tie and pocket square combinations using three of the most popular jacket colours of navy, charcoal and brown. Firstly, we will start with navy. The combinations range from a very subtle complementary colour matching in the first image through to more obviously paired colours in the second and third images.
Below are some grey jacket combinations. We particularly like the third image pairing a yellow tie with our Kingfisher pocket square which has a strong contrast against the jacket.
Finally, we have some combinations with various shades of brown jackets.
Alternatively, if you want to make your pocket square the focal point of your look, you could opt to clash your pocket square with your tie and, indeed, the rest of your outfit. With this, it really is a case of ‘the bolder the better’ so feel free to experiment with vibrant colours or eclectic prints, particularly in summer when you're more likely to be wearing lighter colours.
The +2 Rule
One thing that we would strongly advocate with your pocket square is what we call the +2 Rule. If you think of a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the most conservative and 10 being the most flamboyant, then for your colours or fold you should go for something that is +2 above what you would normally choose for yourself.
1. Most Conservative
5. Middle of the Road
10. Most Flamboyant
Lets say on the above scale you would normally be around a 3, we would fully encourage you to be a little bolder and go for a 5. The reason for this, is the best thing about a pocket square is it elevates your overall appearance and demonstrates that you care about how you look and will get you noticed. However, to truly benefit from it, you need to go just a little further up the scale from your normal dress level.
Think of it this way, have you ever been to a more formal event, perhaps you’ve worn a pocket square, bow tie or tie that is not normally part of your everyday attire. As you’re ready to leave your home your wife/friend/housemate comments on how well dressed you are. You leave the house feeling full of confidence, get to the event and find that... nobody notices, not one person compliments your outfit! And the reason for this is, because everyone is well dressed, you blend into the crowd...
Taking this into your everyday attire, trust us when we say, don't take the safe route and blend into the crowd. For most people, you won't want to be a 10, but if you choose colours or a fold that are +2, trust us when we say you will be rewarded with some compliments, and who doesn't like receiving the odd compliment or two?
Below we have set out a number of rules around colour and pattern matching along with folding guides.
Pocket Square Rules
Below is a handy pocket square guide when choosing your pocket square:
- Choose a secondary colour from your shirt or tie as the primary colour for your pocket square
- Don't overdo the patterns, ensure some articles of clothing are flat colours which will accentuate the colours in your pocket square or tie
- Don't directly match your tie and pocket square
- If you are wearing a silk pocket square make sure it is over 40cm x 40cm (16 inches) as anything smaller, the fine material is likely to slip down into your pocket
- Match your fold to the occasion. For formal occasions stick to the flat fold or one or two point folds, for more casual occasions use some more flare with the classic puff fold or one of the more flamboyant fold as set out below.
- White pocket square rules; for the most part, there are no rules. White squares work with every jacket and tie combination and colour so you can never really get it wrong.
Classic Colour Combinations
There are some classic colour combinations when pairing your pocket square with your jacket colour that will always look immaculate. But why do some colour combinations look more harmonious than others? This is explained by colour theory, where particular colours are more complementary to each other and are therefore more pleasing on the eye. As an aside, colour theory is derived from the colour wheel that was devised by Sir Issac Newton in 1666, showing the relationships between colours.
The Colour Wheel
Utilising the colour wheel, there are some basic rules to follow that will ensure your outfit always looks harmonious. Below we've paired some of our pocket squares with some classic jacket colours to illustrate the theory.
This is one of the simplest combinations, where any two colours on opposite sides of the colour wheel create a high contrast. Usually one colour forms the base, while its contrasting colour provides the accent.
Taking a classic navy jacket, any pocket square with a shade of yellow will always look striking. It's the direct contrast that really makes the magic happen.
A variation that is also a classic combination with navy is burgundy/red/burnt orange as they are adjacent to yellow on the opposite side of the colour wheel, and also produce a high contrast that pairs beautifully with navy.
A monochromatic look is possibly the most effortless style to pull off and is simply taking different shades of the same colour. It is more muted than wearing contrasting colours, but always looks stylish.
Colours that sit beside each other on the colour wheel form an analogous relationship. In the example below shades of reds, oranges and just a hint of yellow harmonise beautifully.
Black and Whites
You may be wondering why there are no blacks or whites on the colour wheel. That's because they're not technically colours and would sit at the centre of the wheel. Blacks provide shades when mixed with colours, while whites provide tints.
What this does mean is when you a pairing either a very dark or a very lightly coloured jacket you really are working with a blank canvas. A good rule of thumb is to choose brighter vibrant colours in summer and more muted, earthy colours in winter, but really it comes down to personal choice, you can't really go wrong!
The tuxedo below looks brilliant when paired with the red accent. For black tie events as long as you're wearing a black bow tie, you can really be bold with your colour choices.
In a similar vein, the same applies for a lightly coloured jacket such as linen. Either darker colours that contrast directly such as the below, or brighter colours in summer always look stunning. The accent colour will always pop off the neutral jacket.
Luxury Pocket Squares vs Low Priced Squares
Like any product, there are high end pocket squares and low priced versions, but what are the main differences? With our products, we set out to create truly beautiful products where you not only see the difference, but can feel the difference in the product, and if cared for, should last a lifetime.
We use the finest mulberry silk where the quality of the fabric can be seen in the texture and the level of detail and vibrancy of the finished product. This gives our products the beautiful soft feel that people associate with high-quality silk products while allowing the design to bleed through evenly on both sides.
We take the utmost care in printing our pocket squares, which results in truly remarkable levels of detail. Faces, objects and colours are sharp and well defined to give a truly stunning finish. We also take exceptional care with the colour bleed, so the print is almost as crisp on the back as it is on the front, allowing for an unlimited number of folds.
In contrast, cheaper pocket squares are generally printed on cheap silk, while the printing if often not crisp and the colour generally doesn't bleed through to the opposite side, limiting how you can fold it in your pocket.
The final key difference between luxury pocket squares and cheaper versions is the hand rolled edges. We feel that the precision and care taken by our skilled artisans gives each square its own unique character, finish and feel. To create the finest rolled hems, the edge of the silk must be softy turned over with a handheld needle and then small stitches are inserted approximately one half to one centimetre apart around the edge, creating a supple yet prominent border. This plump border helps give the square structure and makes it possible to do pointed folds. Cheaper alternatives have flat machine sewn hems which leaves them quite limp and unstructured.
Pocket Square Designs
There are three classic options when it comes to pocket square design. There is the flat colour, the repeat design and the print. The repeat pattern was the traditional design for much of the 20th century, and still remains a very popular choice. The print can be anything from historic art works through to modern art, graphic design or photographs.
Pocket Square Fabric OptionsSilk Pocket Squares
One of the most popular fabrics for pocket squares is silk. Silk has the properties of not only feeling very luxurious, but is also the perfect material for luminous colours as the light hits it from different angles you can get different pops of colour, which adds real interest to an outfit. Also well known for being a fine fabric which means you can achieve a number of intricate silk pocket square folds.
One of the most underrated fabrics for pocket squares is the mix of silk and wool. It takes the best of both worlds, the luxurious feel of the silk, and the texture of the wool, in order to create a beautiful, lightweight fabric. The result is not as bright as silk and therefore more adapted to some situations, but it has a unique texture which pairs very well with silk ties. The presence of both materials makes it very light.
The wool tends to make it wrinkle resistant, and therefore allows it to drape beautifully while looking great with all different kinds of folds. The silk brings a small shine to it and enhances the details. The most common blend is 70% wool and 30% silk. While 100% wool pocket squares are more adapted to winter and autumn, a mix of wool and silk works for all year round.
Compared to other fabrics, this blend pairs particularly well with all suit fabrics. You can either wear a wool and mohair fabric, or a heavier fabric like Tweed or Herringbone. It is therefore very versatile, and a strong addition to a collection.
On a pocket square like La Gourmandise (far left), we chose wool/silk for the fabric as it gives a perfect result - the texture is highly visible on the lighter parts of the painting, while the silk helps the blue and yellow to shine. The outcome is a pocket square which can be paired with both dark and lighter suits and blazers. While 'Spark' (far right) has both the vibrancy of silk and the lightweight texture of the wool to make it a perfect summer square.
The texture is also an ideal complement to the designs, which are historical deco, so gives them a certain old world charm.
Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, and it is completely made of natural materials. It is very resistant to wear and tear, yet very light. As a result, linen pocket squares are often associated with summer, where lighter fabrics are worn.
They are less shiny than silk and can be worn with a contrasting fabric like a tuxedo for a black-tie event, but a double-breasted linen jacket will also pair very well with a linen pocket square. The only downside of linen is that it requires ironing quite often, as it wrinkles very easily.
Linen pocket squares look smarter than cotton pocket squares, and can be worn with both formal jackets, casual looks. The matte aspect of linen pairs well with silk ties, as well as wool ties.
Cotton pocket squares tend to be the most affordable, since cotton is not an expensive material, however they do not have the same panache or vitality of higher quality fabrics like silk or wool/silk. Cotton tends to be used for handkerchiefs and is not considered a luxurious fabric.
Pocket Square Folds
Once you’ve chosen your square, there remains the all-important decision of how to fold your pocket square. As mentioned, you should match your fold to the occasion, but also keep in mind that certain folds will lift the colours in your square. The classic pocket square fold is known as the flat fold or presidential fold, and is often seen in classic images and TV programs set in the 50's and 60's.
While this evokes images of another time, it now really only works for formal events. We would definitely advocate experimenting with folds that are a bit more flamboyant.
The simplist to achieve is the puff fold with your pocket square, which involves pinching the centre of the square and then twisting or folding it, before placing it in your breast pocket so that the corners are at the bottom and the central design remains visible. Not only is this fold easy to achieve, but it works for most situations from the office through to a summer wedding, see more on this below. You can find our folding guide here: The Puff Fold.
If your square has a design that incorporates an interesting border then you want to make the most of this with a point fold or perhaps a Dunaway fold.
For step-by-step guides on how to achieve different folds, see our pocket square folding guides here: how to fold a pocket square.
How To Fold A Pocket Square For A Wedding
Often a wedding is when all gentlemen like to look their Sunday best. Even for those not normally known for their elegant dress sense, it is one of the few times each year they will be prepared to make a concerted effort. Below are 3 of our favourite folds for a wedding, in order from the most conservative to the most flamboyant. Click on the image to go through to our folding guide for that particular look.
White Pocket Squares
Perhaps the most classic of all is the men's white pocket square. From the grainy white pocket square, black suit photo's from the early 20th century, this simple square has an illustrious history. The key reason being that this square works with every jacket and pattern combination, there are no real white pocket square rules to take into account when selecting your chosen outfit.
The classic understated look is the flat fold as seen below on the left. This is the most formal look and works for any situation or event you may be attending. Our advice would be that this simple square can be elevated with just a touch of colour, whether that be evidenced coming through in your fold or by having a coloured edging to your square.
One look that that is always timeless, is the white pocket square navy suit combination as seen below.
Black Pocket Squares
The pocket square is generally used to provide a bit of sartorial flair to your outfit, with contrast generally being the key goal. The black pocket square when paired with a dark navy or black jacket being the exception to this.
Often used in more formal settings, it can give you quite a polished finish. However, the main issue is that often your sartorial endeavours are not even visible until others are within touching distance.
It is our opinion that if you are looking to get the plaudits you deserve with a black pocket square you should either go for a square with a hint of pattern or a classic white shoestring. The white trim will always give that clear contrast that completes the jacket beautifully.
Suit Pocket Squares
As a general rule of thumb, there are no distinct pocket square rules for a when pairing your pocket square with a suit relative to wearing a sports jacket or blazer. However, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.
Firstly, a suit is a more formal option than a stand-alone jacket, therefore you will often be wearing it in a more formal environment. Therefore, the safest choice is to wear a plain or very lightly patterned square in a presidential fold such as the below.
The next thing to consider is the pattern of the suit. Depending on your own personal style, if you choose to go for a more vibrant pattern with your suit then the more formal etiquette would be to go for a plainer pocket square design to provide balance. Note the square in the below image complementing the shirt colour for a beautifully balanced look that is perfect for a corporate environment.
Finally, there is the more flamboyant look, where the accessories are contrasting against the suit colour. In the below, you have a navy blue suit with the small hint of burgundy in the pocket square complementing the tie. This style is our favourite look for a suit, where it's not over the top, but definitely displays a sartorial flair to leave a lasting impression.
We are often asked, what colour pocket square with a navy suit works best as the navy suit is such a classic suit choice. Fortunately, a plain navy suit is effectively a blank canvas, so it's more a case of choosing a colour or pattern that is right for the environment, be it business or more casual.
Tuxedo Pocket Square Rules
For the most part, there are only two main rules when choosing your tuxedo pocket square colour. If it's a formal black-tie event, it's generally considered appropriate to wear a white pocket square in a presidential pocket square fold (flat fold), or a conservative puff fold.
However, for the vast majority of events that you will attend, a pocket square with a pop of colour is more than acceptable, and often the way that you can differentiate yourself for everyone else. It's also worth considering wearing a tuxedo with a more adventurous colour other than the standard black.
Pocket Square Styles
One of the great things about a pocket square is they are so incredibly versatile in how you wear them and reasonably subtle changes can have a big impact on your style. The colour that you choose and the fold that you use is really a function on the colour of your outfit, the nature of the occasion, whether it be for work, or more formal such as a wedding, and your own personal style.
When choosing what pocket square to wear with a suit, you could choose a conservative fold such as a flat fold and position it so that it is around a half to an inch is viewable above your pocket. Whereas is you use colours that are in high contrast with your jacket and use a more flamboyant fold that really catches the eye. Below are some examples from our Instagram feed of some more conservative and flamboyant looks that demonstrate how to wear a pocket square.
So firstly, below are more conservative styles. The pocket square is quite subtle in its positioning and also the colours complement other hues in the outfit.
In comparison, below are some images that are more flamboyant in either their colour contrast or fold. With the more flamboyant styles the square naturally draws the eye and makes more of a style statement.
Pocket Square Without Tie Styles
Some people have a perception of the type of occasion around when to wear a pocket square, i.e. formal and worn with a James Bond style suit and tie. On the contrary, pocket squares can be a casual accessory which adds a touch of flair to an open shirt and jacket combination.
Pocket Square Holders
It is possible to buy pocket square cards, or a pocket square holder that effectively holds your fold in place. We would strongly advise against these products for a couple of obvious reasons.
Firstly, if your pocket square is the correct size, 40cm to 45cm for most fabrics such as silk, linen or cotton, or around 30cm for heavier fabrics such as tweed, there is enough volume with the fabric to hold almost any fold firmly in place.
Secondly, by wearing a pocket square you are instantly elevating your style, displaying that you are a man of sartorial flair and panache. For that same man to be relying on a pocket square fold card is akin to wearing a clip-on tie, rather embarrassing if spotted.
Simple pocket square folds such as the puff or two point, are easy to master and give you the opportunity to display your personality while taking the time to master a complicated fold can be both enjoyable and create a real talking point at your event or occasion.
Pocket Square vs Pocket Handkerchief vs Suit Handkerchief?
Finally, we do get asked whether you should refer to it as a pocket square, pocket handkerchief, suit handkerchief or even the French term pochette. For the most part, they are interchangeable, however, we definitely would advise using the term pocket square. A handkerchief does have the connotation of something that you use to blow your nose, whereas a pocket square (or pochette if you want to display your European flair) is a classic touch of sartorial elegance, essential to completing your outfit.
Pocket Square Size
The size of a pocket square has a surprisingly large impact on the fold and pocket square styles that you can achieve, and therefore how it looks in your jacket or suit pocket. A silk square is lightweight by its very nature and therefore anything less than 40cm (16 inches) will tend to slip down inside your pocket. So as you are moving around during the day or evening, you will need to keep retrieving from within your pocket.
Therefore avoid squares less than 40cm that are cheaply manufactured and invest in a square that's between 40cm and 45cm. This rule of thumb also applies to other lightweight fabrics such as wool/silk, cotton and linen.
The only exception to this rule is squares that are made out of a heavy fabric such as Tweed as anything more than around 30cm will soon become bulky once folded in your pocket.
When To Wear A Pocket Square
Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule.
We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is a firm no. Once you become a regular square wearer you'll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes.
It's really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a conservative look, choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a dark brown square with polka dots. The more the colours contrast, the more the square will provide a more visible accent to your outfit, such as a predominately white square on dark brown jacket as in the image below.
Tonal monochrome shades work well for pocket squares teamed with black or grey suits, for instance, while a vibrant pop of red adds interest to crisp blue suits, particularly in summer. A puff fold can also offer a more nonchalant approach to formal dressing than the classic flat fold.
However, in more recent times, the pocket square’s recent resurgence in popularity has also led to an influx of men elevating their everyday looks and showing a bit of sartorial flair.
We like to keep a plain white silk pocket square for formal occasions, but even then like to mix it up with a little bit of texture or subtle variation in colour such as our ivory pocket square below which can be viewed here: White and Ivory Paisley Pocket Square. The reason this works so well in formal environments, is you still have the traditional white base, but having the variation will give your outfit that little bit more interest than a flat white colour. It also goes without saying that even though a flat fold is classic, you will get a lot more compliments with a fold showing a bit more flair such as a puff or an angled peaks fold.
Alternatively a square that is predominately white with either a coloured edging or light pattern provides a relatively conservative look that will work in all business environments.
A well-cut suit or jacket certainly makes a strong statement about a man, but to really stand out, it's your accessories that really make all the difference. Just look at the difference the humble pocket square can add to a relatively simple jacket. Not a flamboyant colour combination or fold, but a subtle accent featuring our Kinglet Calyptura that works perfectly in the work environment.
In fact, that's one of the reason's we started Rampley & Co. We felt that there was a dearth of truly unique and interesting men's accessories so we partnered with some of the world's leading galleries to try and create striking accessories which you can be seen in our online store.
In short, we at Rampley and Co believe that the pocket square offers an incredibly versatile accessory option; allowing modern men to express themselves and vary their look without having to invest in different suits and outerwear. You may also be interested to see our post on shirt and tie combinations which has further insights into matching your accessories to get the most of our your outfit.
Click here to view our full range of Hand Rolled Pocket Squares.
Updated: 7 July, 2021.
Menswear Blogger - Linus Norrbom - Sweden
"From a person that feels naked without a pocket square in the chest pocket of my jacket, I can honestly say that Rampley & Co. have change the way I look upon pocket squares.
Rampley & Co. is well renowned for their beautiful and unique pocket squares, but have more recently widened their range of quality men’s accessories, such as e.g. ties in lovely Scabal fabrics but also braces, umbrellas and socks.
In terms of the pocket squares, it is truly a great joy wear a piece of art in your pocket. They feature carefully selected artwork motifs, beautifully printed on high-quality silk and well handcrafted with nice hand-rolled edges etc. I find that the size of 42×42 cm of the Rampley & Co. pocket squares works really well, it sits well in the pocket and allows various folds. The different folds, combined with a lot of colours in the motif, makes the pocket square really versatile in terms of complementing an outfit..." Click to read full review.
The Grey Fox - David Evans - United Kingdom
"I've used Rampley & Co pocket squares, socks and ties for a few years now. All are well-made and stylish. I believe in buying few and buying well - it's the only sustainable way to avoid piles of stuff going into landfill.
The pocket squares are exceptional; in fact I'd collect them all if I could. Those based on old paintings and prints have the advantage that you can fold them in infinite ways, effectively giving you scores of squares in one.
The ties are the ideal width and length and their quality enables me to tie a full knot - always important. It's always worth keeping an eye on their website as the best designs come and go quickly..." Click to read full review.
"I was elated when I received the most elegant and exquisite pocket square I had ordered from Rampley & Co! It is absolutely gorgeous. The color and clarity of the scene depicted, and the quality of this accessory are truly exceptional." Read more reviews...
"Very impressed by both the quality of the product and the customer service. The team fulfilled a last-minute request and got a beautiful pocket square to me via international shipping nearly instantaneously." Read more reviews...
"I recently purchased a scarf for my wife´s Birthday and a pocket square for myself. We could not be more pleased. The items arrived promptly, beautifully presented and I received a surprise with my pocket square." Read more reviews...