Jacopo Tintoretto, about 1518-1594 Saint George and the Dragon about 1555 © The National Gallery, London 100% Silk Hand Rolled Designed and Printed in Britain 42cm x 42cm Free Worldwide...
Canaletto 1697 - 1768, The River Thames with St. Paul's Cathedral on Lord Mayor's Day, c.1747-8 100% SilkHand RolledDesigned and Printed in Britain42cm x 42cmFree Worldwide Delivery This pocket square is based...
This Midnight Blue Star Repeat Wool Tie is handmade in England and made from the finest quality wool. It provides a subtle addition to an outfit and can be used in both casual...
The Death of Major Peirson, 6th January 1781, John Singleton Copley, 1783, © Tate, London 2014 On this pocket square we’ve used a large oil painting by American artist John Singleton Copley that depicts the death of...
How Should A Suit Jacket Fit?
With the vast number of styles of suit jackets now available, it's pretty key to have a basic understanding of which styles flatter your natural proportions. Too large and you will look sloppy, too small and you'll see strained material and restricted movement. Everybody has different proportions, following these general rules will help you find a jacket that emphasises your best features.
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Dressing Like A Gentleman
As James in the video states, the shoulders should sit flat, while the jacket collar should sit snug against the shirt collar and follow the curve of your neck. Finding a comfortable fit around the collar keeps both the shirt and jacket sitting snuggly around your shoulders and the back of the neck. From a tailor’s perspective, changing the fit of the collar is considerably more difficult than other alterations; therefore if you are looking to buy an off the peg jacket we recommend that you pay particular attention to how the jacket sits on the shoulders and around the collar as possible.
In terms of the shape of the jacket, it's important that the arm hole is cut is high as possible as this gives the jacket it's shape. Again if you're looking to purchase an off the peg jacket, ensure that the sleeve is cut nice and high under the arm. Then but taking the waist in a little you will add more shape to the jacket and give the classic tailored look.
Bunched up shoulders, caused by the sleeves being sewn at the wrong angle will cause wrinkles, making the overall fit look sluggish. Watch out for shoulder divots and shoulder rumpling, these are tell-tale signs of an ill-fitting suit and make you look sloppy. Shoulder divots appear when the suit is too large at the shoulders, causing the padding to jut out from the body and the suit material to fall past it. This is where the real benefit of a tailored suit is apparent, as the tailor will ensure the cut and angles fit your own shape so that the material always sits nice and flat across your shoulders.
The sleeves of a suit jacket should leave the shirt sleeve is slightly exposed. One or two centimetres is the average amount, less is more conservative, more a bit more flamboyant, so the colour and amount of collar you show is often a reflection on your personal style.
How long should a suit jacket be? The longer the length of a jacket the more opportunity there is to emphasise the shape between the shoulders, waist and hips, but it should only just cover the seat.
A well tailored jacket will create a refined silhouette, with depth in the lapels and always sit flat across the body.For more insights into tailoring, see our full tailoring video series in association with Savile Row tailors the Cad & The Dandy.