Ensuring the proportions of your tie knot is correctly matched to your type of collar is essential to a well balanced look. In our style series below, we explore how to match your tie knot to your shirt collar correctly.
In our latest video, Leah is joined by fashion consultant Chris Modoo to discuss which tie knots work best for each type of collar shape.
English Spread Collar
The first collar shape you see featured is a moderate cutaway, also known as an English spread. This collar shape is a very classic and timeless shape that works well with most types of jackets. The styling shown features a classic navy two-button jacket, and it accommodates a small to medium type knot, so it is perfect for a ‘four in hand’ knot or a ‘half Windsor’ if you prefer something a little bit fuller.
Extreme Cutaway Collar
The extreme cutaway collar is literal to the name whereby the points are dramatically spread back, sitting on the lapels, creating a focal point to the neck. This works well with larger knots such as a Windsor knot because you have plenty of space to accommodate it. However, this doesn’t mean you can’t do a smaller knot, such as the ‘four in hand’ for an equally elegant look.
Long Point Collar
The long point collar is quite an unusual collar shape that you don't often see in a ready-made shirt. The long point shape is excellent because the collar points sit really well under the lapel of most jackets. As shown in the video, and the image below, the points are relatively long, so it is quite a statement look when you take your jacket off.
As the collar creates a pretty narrow opening, we suggest using a tie with a smaller knot. You can also opt for a pin or clip to this collar for added detail to this trendy, retro look.
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The button-down is a very popular collar shape that's suited to be worn without a tie for a casual look, but you can put a tie with it to smarten up your outfit. Oxford shirt fabric is a commonly used shirt weave seen on button-down collars. If opting for a tie, we would always recommend putting a small 'four in hand' knot with a button-down collar because of the smaller tie space.
In terms of tie style and fabric, stripe ties look great as they are slightly sportier and not so formal. Also, a button-down collar works exceptionally well under blazers without a tie for a classic smart-casual look.
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Further Reading: Complete Guide to Ties