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Herbert James Draper, 1863 - 1920, The Lament for Icarus, 1898
This classic work is from British painter Herbert James Draper, an artist renowned for his work on Greek mythology. This particular painting depicts the dead Icarus, surrounded by lamenting sea-nymphs. In the classic story, Icarus' father Daedalus created wings made of wax so that he and his son could escape their island prison on Crete. But, overcome by pride, and ignoring all warnings, Icarus flies too close to the sun, melting his wings and plunging to his death.
Drapers use of the male body for the projection of subjective emotion is a feature of late-Victorian painting and sculpture, while the rays of the setting sun on distant cliffs emphasise the transience of time. The warm colours, along with the way Draper applied liquid light effects in his painting style, works brilliantly for a jacket lining.
Usage: Generally, we find tailors prefer to work with two panels of a single painting per jacket in order to line up the image along the back seam. For full details on how best to use our linings, click here: Linings FAQ.
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Born in London, Draper studied art at the Royal Academy. In the early stage of his career, he focused mainly on mythological themes from ancient Greece. The painting featured on this pocket square, The Lament for Icarus, won the gold medal at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900 and was later bought for the Tate Gallery by the Chantrey Trustees.
He was also responsible for the decoration of the ceiling of the Drapers' Hall in the City of London. Though Draper was neither a member nor an associate of the Royal Academy, he took part in the annual expositions from 1890. In later years as public tastes changed, and mythological scenes became less popular he concentrated more on portraits, and in his later life became well known for his portrait work.
First, the practical benefits. It is a widely held misconception that this thin layer of material is only used for aesthetic purposes. However, a tailor will look at a jacket lining as a fabric utilised to support the garment. You might notice that the very best looking suit jackets have a certain gravitas, weight and shape that anchors the entire look of a suit. You can attribute much of this ‘feel’ to a good jacket lining, which fortifies the structure and adds weight and heft. It may seem counter-intuitive, but the addition of the extra weight allows the garment to better sit along the contours of the body.Half vs. Fully Lined. This is not as simple as a half-lined jacket is a cost saver, it can also be a practical consideration, with half-lined generally being preferred in the warm summer months, and fully-lined for cooler winter temperatures. It is also worth noting that a lined jacket is much harder to crease.
Now to the aesthetic. The jacket lining deftly hides the interlinings, stitching and raw edges. A properly constructed jacket to sit perfectly on the body is quite a complex construction and a lining allows the remaining evidence of that complexity to be neatly hidden. Finally, to the design itself. A flat colour will complete the jacket, but a bespoke lining will make the jacket truly one of kind. Something that only increases the emotional connection the wearer has towards the garment.
Click here to read our Complete Guide to Jacket Linings.
Macclesfield was once the centre of the English silk weaving industry and the world's biggest producer of finished silk. The area has been printing silk for over 300 years and at one point had over seventy mills operating in the town. The town is close to a water supply that passes through limestone, and when used in washing and dyeing it gives silk a uniquely attractive lustre.
Our silk linings are printed at a mill that has been producing printed fabric on the same site for the past fifty years and the process uses water sourced from its own reservoir.
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