Jacket Mistakes to Avoid: How to Care for a Tailored Jacket
A tailored jacket is a long-term investment, and most of the things that shorten its life are entirely avoidable. The mistakes tend to be small habits rather than dramatic events — a wire hanger here, an overstuffed pocket there — but they accumulate. Chris Modoo runs through the most common ones in sixty seconds.
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Use the Right Coat Hanger for a Tailored Jacket
Wire hangers are the single most common cause of shoulder damage in tailored jackets. The narrow gauge of a wire hanger concentrates all the weight of the jacket on two small contact points, which over time deforms the shoulder and chest canvas. A proper wooden or substantial padded hanger, wide enough to mirror the natural shoulder line of the jacket, distributes that weight correctly and allows the jacket to hang in its proper shape.
The width of the hanger matters as much as the material. A hanger that is too narrow will allow the shoulders to drop inward; one that is too wide will stretch them outward. The shoulder of the hanger should sit at approximately the same width as your own shoulder when the jacket is worn. Most dedicated coat hangers sold for tailoring are designed with this in mind. The small additional cost over a wire hanger is negligible against the value of the jacket it is protecting.
Protect the silhouette
Do Not Overstuff the Pockets or Button the Bottom Button
Tailored jacket pockets are functional but not designed to carry weight. Overstuffing a single pocket — with a phone, wallet, keys, and whatever else accumulates during a day — pulls the front of the jacket out of shape and strains the pocket opening. If you need to carry several items, distribute them across different pockets or move them to a bag. A jacket that hangs evenly across the front is doing exactly what it was cut to do; one with a bulging lower pocket is fighting its own construction.
The bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is designed to remain undone. This is not a modern affectation — it is structural. The button and buttonhole are there for symmetry and to give the option of fastening for warmth if needed, but the default position is open. Buttoning the bottom button pulls the jacket tight across the hips, disrupts the line of the skirt, and often causes the jacket to ride up at the back. Leave it undone.
Protect the fabric
Never Wear a Rucksack With a Tailored Jacket, and Always Brush Rather Than Lint-Roll
A rucksack worn on the back with a tailored jacket does sustained damage to the shoulders. The straps compress and abrade the fabric at the shoulder seams and across the upper back, two areas that are both structurally important and difficult to repair invisibly. If you need to carry a rucksack, hold it by its handle at your side rather than wearing it. For anything carried regularly, a briefcase or weekend bag will serve the jacket considerably better.
For cleaning, a good quality clothes brush is the correct tool. A lint roller lifts surface debris effectively, but its adhesive can pull at the surface fibres of finer fabrics over time and leave a residue that attracts further lint. A clothes brush removes dust, debris, and surface lint without any adhesive contact with the fabric, and used regularly it also helps maintain the nap and keep the cloth looking fresh between wears. Brush with the grain of the fabric, from shoulder downward, using light strokes rather than pressing hard into the cloth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Your Questions Answered
What type of hanger should you use for a tailored jacket?
A wooden or substantial padded coat hanger wide enough to match your shoulder width. Wire hangers concentrate the weight of the jacket on two small contact points and deform the shoulder and chest canvas over time. A proper hanger distributes the weight across the full shoulder line and allows the jacket to hang in its natural shape. The width of the hanger should mirror the width of your shoulders when the jacket is worn.
Should you button the bottom button of a suit jacket or blazer?
No. The bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is designed to remain undone. Buttoning it pulls the jacket tight across the hips, disrupts the line of the skirt, and often causes the jacket to ride up at the back. The convention of leaving it undone is structural, not merely stylistic, and applies to single-breasted jackets of all styles. On a two-button jacket, fasten the top button only. On a three-button jacket, the middle button only, or the top two.
Can you wear a rucksack with a tailored jacket?
It is best avoided. Rucksack straps compress and abrade the fabric at the shoulder seams and across the upper back, which are areas that are both structurally important and difficult to repair without visible evidence. If you need to carry a rucksack while wearing a tailored jacket, hold it by its handle at your side rather than wearing it on your back. For daily use alongside tailoring, a briefcase or structured bag will protect the jacket considerably better.
Is a lint roller bad for a tailored jacket?
Used occasionally, a lint roller is unlikely to cause serious damage, but used regularly it can pull at the surface fibres of finer fabrics and leave an adhesive residue that attracts further lint. A good quality clothes brush is the better long-term tool. It removes dust, debris, and surface lint without adhesive contact with the fabric, and used regularly it helps maintain the nap and keep the cloth looking fresh between wears. Brush with the grain of the fabric using light strokes.
How should you store a tailored jacket?
On a properly sized wooden or padded hanger, in a well-ventilated wardrobe away from direct sunlight. Empty the pockets before hanging. If storing for an extended period, a breathable cloth garment bag will protect the fabric from dust without trapping moisture. Avoid plastic garment bags for long-term storage, as these can trap humidity and cause the fabric to become musty. Allow the jacket to air for a few hours after wearing before returning it to the wardrobe.
How often should a tailored jacket be dry cleaned?
As infrequently as possible. Dry cleaning uses solvents that, over repeated applications, degrade the natural fibres and interlining of a wool jacket. Spot clean small marks where possible. Brush the jacket regularly to remove surface dirt and dust. Air it after wearing. Most tailored jackets benefit from being dry cleaned no more than once or twice a year. If the jacket is steamed professionally between dry cleans, it will retain its shape and freshness considerably longer.
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